Thursday, January 25, 2007

‘Bayong’ Chic And Other Magical Reinventions


Cheche Moral (Inquirer)

LOUIS VUITTON MAY NOT exactly be the kind of brand you would associate with fairies—the mythical kind, that is—but those magical winged creatures were, in fact, the source of Marc Jacobs’ inspiration for LV’s Women’s Spring/Summer 2007/08 apparel collection.

The pieces are delicate and pretty, like garden pixies incarnated in vintage-feel silk chiffons, organzas, voiles and cotton jerseys, in the palest pastels and antiqued florals. The sweetness is underscored by appliquéd rosettes on silk chiffons, tiered ruffles as underskirts, and flounces on other pieces. Jacobs also references undergarment details in some of the pieces—hook-and-eye fastenings, back lacing on a tailored suit and embroidered bras underneath a sheer top.

Textures are decidedly soft and very feminine, even young, so that the styling is countered by masculine details like a dark leather belt against a frilly dress. Jacobs played on the good and the bad fairy, said Dinesh Kandiah, LV’s PR director for Asia Pacific, at the Asian press preview in Singapore, so that in the sea of pastels were several black pieces, including a sharply tailored smoking jacket with slim abbreviated pants.

While international critics responded well to Jacobs’ collection, it’s hard, in this town, to imagine how the clothes would be received by older women with LV-buying power. No matter, perhaps, as hereabouts, it’s all about the bag anyway. And in this department, LV-philes, young and old alike, have a lot to whet their shopping appetite come March when the collections hit the stores.

Low becomes high fashion

LV fans already know that Jacobs had transformed the lowly check plastic shopper (bayong) bag into one of the It bags of the season. The bag is crafted from thinly braided leather strips with a passport-like stamp of the brand’s logo on one side. It comes in two sizes.

After the colorful Murakamis come another eye-catcher, the Polka Dots Flowers, a canvas bag studded with 20 shades of riveted leather button discs with buckles and handles made of hammered gold metal. Other styles come in subtler shades of beige and white canvas, the dots bearing LV’s emblems.

The Monogram Denim, meanwhile, is updated into a patchwork style using a variety of 10 denims, some bleached or faded for that worn, vintage-y look. The Monogram Dentelle also gets an update as it’s embroidered with metal lace motifs in both silver and gold. The Monogram also comes in quilted supple-soft lambskin with a twisted rope handle.

Tribute

Never question Jacobs’ ability to surprise. Or, shock. The Parisian label introduces this spring The Tribute Bag, a design that combines 15—yes, 15!—of LV’s most popular bag styles in one limited-edition style. It’s a tad over-the-top, but its limited quantity may just make it one of the season’s most coveted handbags.

The fairy motif spills onto women’s footwear with platform sandals in brocade floral satin fabrics. The hollowed-out heels were inspired by teacup handles.

For men, it will be hard to miss this season’s Hawaiian hibiscus print shirts, ties and scarves (a Keepall for men also comes in this pattern). Similar scene-stealers are the men’s metallic gold oxfords (the kind that, members of the Philippine press agreed, had Tim Yap’s name written on it), “Louis” brooches studded with Swarovski crystals, and a chain-mail silver bracelet of interlinked Monogram flowers.

Women will be also coveting their husband’s and boyfriend’s oversized satchels, and a standout shopper with oversized front pockets in kangaroo hide.

Expected to be a top seller here, according to LV Philippines’ Pamela Picazo, however, is a simple women’s shopper sequined with the word “LoVe,” or “LVoe,” depending on how you look at it. The chief designer, Jacobs, was quoted as saying, “There’s no love without LV.” It comes in beige canvas and two jewel satin shades. A T-shirt with similar embroidery will be made available here by special order (LV apparel isn’t sold in the Philippines).

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